The usual boomtown story goes something like this: gold or some other precious metal is discovered and prospectors pitch tents in a cluster along a river. At first, a crude frame building is erected as a general store for the prospectors to buy supplies. Soon a tent is pitched to house a saloon, and if it does well, more saloons are created. As the area becomes crowded with more prospectors, the general store is joined by a tonsorial parlor and a hotel. Shortly thereafter, the tents are replaced by simple frame buildings, some with false fronts. And there you have the main street of a fledgling town; sprung up seemingly overnight. The crowds swell, streets become lined with saloons, parlor houses, dry goods stores, a bank, jail, post office, feed store and perhaps a land or assayers office. Fortunes are made and lost and eventually the gold plays out. The town's population dwindles and is perhaps abandoned. Sometimes boom towns find other means to maintain and regrow the population, but like as not, they fade away into ghost towns.
Such is the life of the typical boom town. Of course, not all boom towns begin with a gold strike. In the state of Texas, one associates booms to an oil strike or a place along a cattle trail. Oil and cattle; that's certainly what one thinks of when ruminating on Texas. But the town of Mineral Wells, 51 miles west of the cattle town of Fort Worth, did things differently. It's boom began with the discovery of mineral water. Rich in calcium, magnesium, lithium and other minerals, the water of Mineral Wells was believed to have medicinal qualities. Water that you could take to the bank in the late 19th and early 20th century.
Settlement in the area began in the 1870s but the story of Mineral Wells began in 1877 with the arrival of James Lynch and his family. It was he and his family who not only discovered the water, but also discovered its health giving attributes.
He and his family were living in Denison and because a number of family members were suffering from various ailments associated with malaria, Lynch decided to re-locate his family. According to Cutter’s 1893 Guide to Mineral Wells,
“Mr. Lynch and his wife had both been suffering with malarial rheumatism for some years, and he had been unable to do any hard work for a long time; Mrs. Lynch could not raise her hands to her head, and others were obliged to arrange her hair; her hands were also drawn out of shape and the joints very much enlarged. Nearly every one of the family had chills and fever, and some of them had been prostrated with malarial fever.” In those days, there were no pharmaceutical companies nor the drugs we have available to us now. Folks often used home remedies or questionable cure-all elixirs. Or...they moved to different climates.
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Lynch and his wife Armanda (courtesy of Boyce Ditto Public Library) |
In 1877, hoping it would provide relief from the malarial symptoms, the Lynches decided to leave the more humid climate of Denison and head west for a drier climate. “Judge” Lynch (as he was later called) and his wife and children left Denison with 50 head of livestock, including a number of oxen. When they reached Millsap Valley, they heard news of Comanche attacks further west and so “they decided to settle down where they were, in a valley tucked among the hills of Palo Pinto County”. The spot they chose to build their two cabins is where Mineral Wells' Lynch Square is located today.
The Well That Started It All
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The Lynch Well (Courtesy of Boyce Ditto Public Library) |
Although the valley was
beautiful and suited their needs, the Lynches were four miles from the only
water source, the Brazos River. They hauled their water from the river in
barrels on wagons drawn by oxen. In February of 1878, Lynch purchased
eighty acres of land from the Franco-Texas Land Company. In the Spring,
Lynch attempted to dig a well using only picks and shovels. Although he
and his sons dug down 41 feet, they didn’t find water. So they continued
hauling water from the Brazos for another two years.
In the summer of 1880, a well-digger named Johnny Adams came through the valley.
Adams agreed to finish digging the Lynch’s well in exchange for a yoke of oxen.
He struck water at 110 feet. “All the members of the family and a few neighbors
gathered about to sample or take a good drink of the clear, sparkling nectar
which was drawn up from the depths of mother earth in the long, galvanized-iron
bucket. All drank or tasted of the water and each face expressed a
dislike or disgust at the smell, taste or quality of the water. “I’d
rather haul water from the Brazos than to drink that nasty stuff,” said one of
the boys. They all agreed that it was not pleasant to the taste. Several
of the older members of the family also feared that the water might be
poisonous or at the very least unhealthy to drink. It was said that its
mineral content was so high, it was even of no use in washing or cooking.
They continued to haul water in barrels from the Brazos River.
The Lynches
watered their livestock with the water from the well to test its safety and so,
despite the funny taste, they would at times “use the water from the well only
at intervals when the river water supply was exhausted” and “after using it
continuously for a few months the health of the family was very much
improved…” Lynch found himself cured of his rheumatic trouble, while his
wife was again able to raise her hands to her head and to begin performing the
household duties she had once had to abandon. The family found they were
all feeling better and Lynch credited the water for their improved health.
Two men working for Mr. Lynch both had
conjunctivitis which cleared up after drinking the water and bathing their eyes
with it for a number of days. There is also a story of a cowboy who
had a summer fever and was unable to work. After drinking the water for a
few days, “Richard was himself again” and hereafter he began to tell folks “The
bitter water in Judge Lynch’s well would cure anything in the world, by Gosh!”
The Lynches and their neighbors began drinking from the well regularly and the curative powers of the water had become evident to everyone by that
summer of 1880. When news of the healing powers of this mineral-rich
water spread, hundreds of strangers and then thousands were showing up on the
Lynch property asking for the water. An eyewitness account by J H Baker, a Palo
Pinto resident writing in his diary in late July, says that there is
“considerable excitement in the county below the mountains beyond the river
concerning a well that has been dug, the waters of which seem to be benefiting
those who drink it.” He refers to it as “the medical well”. On July
21, Baker sent his wife and children to the well for her health. On August 16,
he visited “the medical well” himself and reported that already “several
hundred people [were] there for the benefit of their health.” And there
being only the one well, that there was not enough water. Thus, two
additional wells were being drilled; these wells were the J D Smyth well and
another, unnamed well, in the middle of Mesquite Street (First Ave) which was
filled in and abandoned in1882. Lynch’s well could only produce 100 gallons a day, so
he began having folks sign a statement “affirming that they were sick and in
need of the water.”
1881 - The Boom Begins
As word spread about the
curative powers of the water in The Mineral Wells, the number of arrivals
increased daily. There was no housing or hotels. It was reported that by 1881,
Mineral Wells had a population of 1,500-2,000 people “most of them living in makeshift
houses, huts, tents and one or two log cabins”. Upwards of 3,000 people
were said to have been camping on Lynch’s property at one point.
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Mineral Wells, 1881 Objects in background are tents of health-seekers. (Courtesy Boyce Ditto Public Library - A F Weaver Collection) |
The mineral water remained
the focus and it was brought up from the three wells and carried in buckets, cans,
bottles and other containers, “anything that could be found adequate”.
Judge Lynch built a “brush arbor” around his well and started selling the water
by the Pint Tin Cup Full for ten cents. A brush arbor is a rough,
open-sided shelter with vertical poles holding up a roof of long poles laid
across the top. This, then, could be considered, by some, the first water
pavilion in Mineral Wells.
A fourth well was dug in
July of 1881 by W H “Uncle Billy” Wiggins who bought some land from Judge Lynch
in the northwest corner of NE 4th St and NW 1st Ave. This well would become the
most famous of them all, earning the moniker ‘Crazy Well’.
H M Berry, an early resident and historian, wrote in 1921, that when he arrived on September 18, 1881, there were only three families and
a bachelor living in Mineral Wells permanently.
It was in August, just a
month before Berry arrived, when Judge Lynch hired surveyors to lay out the
town and started selling lots. He reserved the location of his cabins as
the town square. As Berry reported it, by the first of October, it looked
like a small army was camped [there], tents were everywhere.” And just a
month later, “the sound of the hammer was heard in all directions; carpenters
had come by the dozens; the road was lined with wagons hauling lumber from
Weatherford and Millsap. Houses were being built in all parts of the
town.” The Paradise Messenger reported that “ten thousand feet of
lumber” was arriving daily with “three car loads at Millsap Station waiting for
wagons to freight it up to the wells.” One of the contractors told Berry
that he had 22 houses under construction. Before the year was out,
three additions were begun: the Wiggins, Slaughter & Barber and French
Additions. The French Addition “sold like hotcakes, people seemed to be
coming from everywhere.” This, the first year of building, and Berry
noted that the “price of town lots were soaring high”. Mineral Wells was booming!
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The Pritchett Hotel - it was later renamed the Richards Hotel. (Courtesy Boyce Ditto Public Library). |
With the masses arriving so
rapidly, there was an urgent need for hotels; a need that grew daily. The first arrival to address this need was
Mr. Pritchett who arrived on October 1. Pritchett opened this first hotel
in a large tent “made of canvas or heavy sheeting, stretched on posts and
poles”. Bunks were placed inside on each side with an aisle “just wide
enough to allow a person to pass between the beds.” He then set about building
a two story box house 25 x 100 feet. He moved his hotel into this box
house and named it The Pritchett Hotel. It was located on the
corner of East Hubbard and NE 2nd Ave in one of the blocks upon which the Baker
Hotel now stands.
The second hotel was built by Col R W Duke. He bought a
block of land bounded by E Hubbard, SE 3rd Ave, SE 1st St and SE 2nd St and
erected a two story L-shaped frame structure in the southwest corner of the
block.
He named his hotel The Piedmont Hotel. He dug a well
on the premises and named it The Bitter Well. The Central Hotel,
built by S W Woods, was the third hotel constructed. The fourth hotel was The
Wiggins, built by W H “Uncle Billy” Wiggins. Photos exist of all but the
Central Hotel. Other early hotels include the Early-Southern Hotel and the Commercial Hotel.
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Commercial Hotel (from Cutter's 1893 Guide) |
Additional wells were also
in demand and several more were dug during this time. Things progressed
so rapidly and wells were dug so close together in time, that Berry proclaimed
“it was hard to know which were dug first.” The wells he mentioned include the Star
Well, which was dug by B T Hudman. Another was the White Sulphur
Well which was dug by D B Lignon. The remaining wells he mentioned
included the Central Well, in association with the Central Hotel and the
Du Bellet Well.
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Early-Southern Hotel |
This last well was dug by Henri
du Bellet, acting agent of the Texas-Franco Land Company and the man
associated with the French Addition. Du Bellet drilled his well and built
an office on the point of the East mountain, directly north and behind the
present day First United Methodist Church. It was first known as the Du
Bellet Well, then later called the French Well. Du Bellet also added
a bath house to the French Well and it was operated for a time by a Dr.
Findlay.
Another early settler in
the area, Colonel W R Austin moved from Kentucky to Palo Pinto County in 1880,
first settling in nearby Staggs Prairie with his wife to farm and ranch.
He made frequent trips to the wells to treat a severe eye infection. After his
eyes were healed, he was a converted believer. Having been convinced of
the water’s healing powers, he moved into Mineral Wells in November and had a
well drilled, naming it the Austin Well. In connection with this
well, he opened a bath house in partnership with Dr Rogers, another
early settler. H M Berry wrote that although J D Smyth had opened a bath
house first, he closed it in the spring of 1882, so he called the Austin
Well Bath House “the first bath house of any note in Mineral Wells.”
Austin would go on to become a prominent Mineral Wells citizen and later open
the Mineral Medicine Manufactory with his son-in-law, a noted lawman named
Rufus Highnote.
By November of 1881, a mere
three months since the town had been laid out, news reports about the
fast-growing town had begun to appear in newspapers far and wide. The reports told the story of the Lynch family and their discovery of a "new and remarkable mineral water, the discovery of which has caused great excitement in this region of the world, and we know of no place which so strikingly exemplifies the rapidity of growth of an American town as this one known as the ‘Mineral Wells’.”
The
Dallas Daily Herald told its readers of “reports of an Aladdin-like growth” in
“Mineral Wells City”, writing that “since the 24th of September...from one
solitary house to now, nearly two hundred buildings” had sprung up and the
population had ballooned from 10 persons to 1,700 with lots going from $10 to
$100-$200 in cost."
In one six
week period 200 houses were erected. The Dallas Daily Herald reported
that the area had gone from one habitation (three months ago) to over
400. The population from 10 to 12 persons to now over 1,000 and “daily on
the increase.” At the end of December, it had “three hotels, two dry
goods stores and five family groceries, three beef markets and a saloon” and a
Dallas woman had under contract a large hotel to be built in
February.
The number of wells
reported at the end of the year were first five, then eight, then twenty.
They were being dug almost as fast as the buildings were going up. One
paper, amusingly observed “wells are becoming ‘as thick as blackberries’.”
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Crazy Well Pavilion 1885 |
The water was said to cure
“various diseases, skin, lung, kidney, sore-eyes, dispepsia, rheumatic,
liver”. The Paradise Messenger wrote that invalids of all kinds were
“seeking the panacea of the wells.” Another source reported that in one short
year thousands had sought and gained relief from various afflictions.
It’s no wonder the Opelika Times was already referring to it as a health
resort. Just a little over a year since the Lynch well had been dug!
Yes, the boom was on!
In 1885, a small pavilion was built around the Wiggins Well and it had acquired the name of the "Crazy Well". Stories of a "crazy woman" having been cured by the water from this well got around and drew even more crowds. The well was first referred to as 'the crazy woman well" and eventually shortened to "Crazy Well".
The wells first began without pavilions. They graduated from wells, to wells with a counter for the serving of the water, to small pavilions and then ever larger pavilions until the largest of them were made of stone or brick. As they developed into these larger pavilions, the wells began to sponsor events, provide offices for businesses, offer bath houses and masseurs. As competition grew between the various wells, the pavilions began to house skating rinks, dance floors, swimming pools, bowling alleys, vaudeville acts and offer movies.
By 1902 all of the best known water pavilions were built and competing against one another with these entertainments. The pavilions included the Lamar Pavilion and Bath House, Star Well, Gibson Well, Crazy Well, Austin Well, White Sulphur Well, Texas Carlsbad Well, Lithia Pavilion, Vichy Well & Natatorium , Sangcura Sprudel, Hawthorn Well and the Famous Water Well Co.
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First Gibson Well Pavilion |
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A larger Gibson Pavilion with Bottling Plant (on left) and Sangcura Sprudel behind it. |
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Sangcura Sprudel Well with bottling plant |
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Palo Pinto Bath House |
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Hawthorn Pavilion |
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Vichy Natatorium |
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Texas Carlsbad Pavilion |
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First Lamar Bath House building |
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Lamar Bath House |
The mineral waters from all of the wells were bottled and and the larger ones shipped their water all over the country. People came to Mineral Wells to drink and bathe in the mineral waters in hopes of being cured from any number of ailments.
The healing properties of the waters also brought a number of doctors to Mineral Wells, some of whom opened health sanitariums. Some of the sanitariums included the Mineral Wells Sanitarium, the Rountree Sanitarium, O'Neal Sanitarium and the Milling Sanitarium. The doctors in these sanitariums combined water baths, massages and other treatments. Others, like Dr. Hubbard operated out of bath houses.
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(Courtesy Boyce Ditto Public Library) |
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O'Neal Sanitarium (Courtesy Boyce Ditto Public Libary) |
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Bethesda Bathhouse |
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Donkey Party overlooking Mineral Wells |
In addition to the activities at the pavilions, the town offered fantastic performances from traveling showmen. Mollie Bailey and her tent-show was a common visitor to Mineral Wells. As was the famous aeronaut Prof Eckhart and country artists The King K Medicine Co. There were also numerous scenic sites in the area and a popular donkey ride on East Mountain.
According to the University of Texas Bulletin No 3435, published in 1935, "many of the most beautiful spots are readily accessible in a few minutes drive or walk from the resort hotels. Others more remote...A thrill awaits the enterprising traveler who searches out and discovers some of the many unexplored canyons, grottos and emerald green pools of water for himself." The scenic spots included the popular and often-photographed Inspiration Point, eight miles south of Mineral Wells; East Mountain; West Mountain; Lake Pinto; Lake Mineral Wells, four miles east of Mineral Wells; Barber Mountain, six miles east of Palo Pinto; Kyle Mountains, four miles north of Palo Pinto and many others. There was also Lover's Retreat, outside of Palo Pinto, which was often used as a meeting or picnic spot. There was a 1000 step stair that ascended East Mountain, often referred to as the Fat Man's Reducer, and a cabin along the donkey trail for photo opportunities.
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Lover's Retreat |
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Cabin and Donkey Party |
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Inspiration Point |
A trolley, operating on an overhead electric line, transported visitors southwest of the town to Elmhurst Park where there were other entertainments including a casino, horse racing and a dance pavilion.
A Chautauqua was built in 1904, but had a difficult time competing with the myriad of entertainments Mineral Wells had to offer. It did not last long and was torn down around 1912.
By the early part of the twentieth century, Mineral Wells was in full swing as a health resort and vacation destination, with people coming to "take the waters"; drinking it for their health, bathing in it and visiting the bath houses for vapor rubs. In 1904, the town recorded 85,000 visitors. It was crowded with pavilions, bath houses, hotels and boarding houses. In 1909, it had 46 hotels and boarding houses to accommodate the seasonal influx of visitors.
The face of Mineral Wells, however, began to change in 1907. A horrific fire that year gutted a popular block in the heart of the city; it consumed the Hawthorn Pavilion; a newly built skating rink; the Lithia Pavilion; the Mineral Wells Bath House; the Mineral Wells Sanitarium and a portion of the Wann Hotel. Only the Mineral Wells Sanitarium was rebuilt. The other spaces remained empty for many years.
Although there were numerous boarding houses and hotels, none of these had sufficient capacity for large numbers of guests. And convention organizers had a difficult time housing all of their attendees or providing adequate meeting space. A larger hotel was needed. It wasn't until the Crazy Well Water Co built the first of two hotel buildings in 1912 that the town had a hotel of any size.
Two years after that, the streets were paved and the Crazy Well Water Co added a second building to The Crazy Hotel; both buildings shared a lobby. Further changes came when Mr. Bert Gibson sold the Gibson Well to the Crazy Well Water Co. The Gibson Well properties were turned into a park. The Sangcura Sprudel Well was also a part of that sale.
In July of that year, another horrific fire destroyed six frame hotels: The Tourist; Harrel House; Lake Charles Louisiana; Carlisle; Burke and the New Hazel. The Norman boarding house burned too as well as the McCutcheon, Hyde and Forline Cottages and seven small homes.
The fire stopped at the Wayside Inn, which caught fire but was saved. (The Wayside Inn, though severely deteriorated, still stands today, next to the old Norwood Hospital.)Unfortunately, yet another tragic conflagration struck the town in 1925. The Crazy Water Hotel, it's adjoining pavilion and all other buildings, in what was referred to as the 'Crazy block', burned to the ground during the night, sending guests into the streets in their night clothes. A new, 'fire-proof' 7 story, 200 room hotel was built in 1927 to replace it. The new hotel included a large lobby and water pavilion on the ground floor, a ballroom, meeting rooms, business suites and a rooftop patio. That building stands today and after having served as a retirement home for many years and then standing vacant for a long time, the Crazy Hotel has now been renovated and will open later this year of 2021. It will be a mixed-use property with efficiency suites, apartments and businesses off the ground lobby and a ballroom for events.
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The Baker Hotel |
Shortly after the Crazy Hotel was rebuilt, a 14 story hotel was built on the block that had once been the home of the Lamar Well properties. The new hotel was named the Baker Hotel. It contained 454 guest rooms, a suite for Mr. Baker, a barbershop and beauty parlor, coffee shop, laundry, dress shop, drugstore, bowling alley, bus terminal, stock broker, rooftop ballroom swimming pool, gymnasium golf and tennis. Also, a drinking pavilion, mineral baths and a medical floor with three physicians as well as a dentist and an optometrist. The Baker Hotel closed in 1972 and despite many attempts to renovate and repurpose it, the 'grand old lady' as she has been called, was largely left to decay with shattered windows leaving much of the building open to the elements. Fortunately, like the Crazy Hotel, investors stepped forward in 2019 and contractors have been steadily making progress on renovations. The hotel is scheduled to re-open in 2024.
The town remained a top spa destination during the 1930s but the depression and pressure from the FDA to cease the health claims made by the mineral water companies had a dampening affect on Mineral Wells' prosperity and popularity.
By the 1940s most of the water companies closed and much of the town's economy and activity revolved around an army base that was established at Camp Wolters east of town. Camp Wolters had begun in 1925 as a summer training ground for the National Guard. The army took it over in 1940 and began training infantry replacements there. At the end of World War II, the base was closed and so did the fortunes of Mineral Wells. Although Camp Wolters was used as a base for training helicopter pilots in the 1950s. It was eventually closed as well and the area now serves as an industrial park.
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The Famous Mineral Water Co still stands today. |
One thing that has remained consistent is the mineral water. In 1958, Ed Dismuke's widow, owner of the Famous Mineral Water Co sold the company to J C Causey. The company went through a number of owners after Causey, but the water remained local and unbottled. But fortune would smile on Mineral Wells once again in 1999. In that year, the stars aligned when Carol and Scott Elder, the new owners of the Famous Mineral Water Co, also purchased the Crazy Well rights and began to once again, bottle Crazy Water.
They have worked tireless to expand the Crazy Well market well beyond a small number of local outlets to several hundred outlets in a numerous neighboring states. I pick up my weekly supply at the local Brookshire's grocery. You can find it and other Crazy products for sale at drinkcrazywater. The Elders have taken the opportunity to promote the town of Mineral Wells with every bottle of Crazy Water sold. Each bottle contains a brief history of the mineral water. They have helped keep the memory of one of the most popular and famous health resorts alive for three decades, while the Baker and Crazy Hotel have been in silence and main street has declined.
A number of other passionate Mineral Wells citizens have also done their part to revitalize downtown by striving to bring the public back to main street with businesses and events. The afore-mentioned owners of Crazy Water spearhead the annual Crazy Festival, while Jacy Roach is the brainchild behind the annual downtown Christmas parade (Merry Wells) and a haunted house which takes place in the abandoned Nazareth Hospital (Spooky Wells). Businesses include The Kraze Boutique, Brazos Market & Bistro, Merrimac & North, Fresh & Fruity Bouquets and Bakery & Delicatessen, 940 Vapes, You Maka Me HOT Coffee Roasting and All-Star Athletics Clothing Store. The Brazos Market & Bistro also hosts events outside in their Hole in the Wall Bier Garten. These folks have been vital to helping Mineral Wells' downtown from becoming a ghost town.
In recent years, local developers Randy & Misty Nix of NSC Properties have helped Mineral Wells make a huge leap toward revitalization. They have purchased a number of local abandoned buildings and spent a great deal of time and money renovating them and encouraging local entrepreneurs to fill the spaces. One of the earliest projects was the purchase and renovation of the old H E Waldron Grocery. The Nixes renovated it and opened the Market at 76067, providing retail space for local products. Judging by the products in this store alone, one would think every one in Mineral Wells is a talented artist. They also purchased a building next door and replaced it with the newly built Coffee & Cocktails at 76067. Now also a hotspot of entertainment activity. One of their most stunning renovations (because of damage done by an infestation of bats) is All Terrain Fitness. The Lofts & Hospitality is a great place for overnight stays and staging family & friend get togethers. Other new businesses include Pastafina Mineral Wells, Happy Days Diner and The Hatchet House (another event venue.)
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Crazy Sign |
Also in recent years, the Mineral Wells Leadership Classes have brought back two iconic signs to the town's skyscape. One is the Welcome sign up on one of the mountains. It greets visitors arriving on Hwy 180 from the east. The old sign was revitalized and new lights were installed so that the sign can now be lit up by computer and in various colors. The beautiful green, white and red Welcome to Mineral Wells Sign - Home of Crazy which was removed decades ago has now also been replaced. It once again stretches magnificently across the highway just one block from its original position.
In addition, you will find over 20 painted murals scattered throughout downtown, over 15 of them newly created.
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Tygrett Hotel |
Not downtown, but within walking distance, is the one remaining boarding house in Mineral Wells. It began as the Tygrett Hotel in the early 1900s and is well over 100 years old. It operated for a number of years under the name of Silk Stocking Row but has recently changed ownership. The new owners, Jeremy and Magen Desnoyers have made over the Tygrett and now operate it under the name The Magpie Inn.
With all of this activity and renewed excitement, the town is on the cusp of another boom. Already busloads of tourists are once more arriving for a day in Mineral Wells. It is becoming a tourist destination again. It is an exciting time for this town.
This blog is devoted to not only the history of Mineral Wells, but to its current events, which will be tomorrow's history. You can keep up with current events via the Facebook page and/or the Twitter account.
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Lamar Mineral Water (courtesy Boyce Ditto Public Library) |
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The first Crazy Hotel which burned in 1925 |
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Sangcura Sprudel bottled water and products from the Sangcura Sprudel Well
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(courtesy of the Boyce Ditto Public Library)
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Promotional pamphlet (courtesy Boyce Ditto Public Library) |
Originally posted by K K R North on 13 June 2021